Day 33-35 - Orlando, Florida

Day 33 (28 July). An early departure from Tallahassee meant that we were able to arrive in Orlando before lunch. We checked into Shades of Green which is a resort within Walt Disney World, but it is owned and operated by the US Armed Forces. The rest of the day was spent finding our way around this large resort, doing laundry, thinking about how we wanted to approach the next week and then buying tickets. The kids loved the pool, but the extensive arcade games really took their fancy - and they have been hooked ever since.

Shades of Green has large well equipped rooms and we have plenty of space. The facility and its amenities are extensive (pools, restaurants, transport) and it is a great place to stay.

We have decided upon a four day pass to Disney World and a two day pass to Universal Studios. There are four main parks in Disney World (Magic Kingdom, Disney Hollywood Studios, Epcot and Animal Kingdom) whilst there are two main parks at Universal Studios (Islands of Adventure - where the Wizarding World of Harry Potter is located and Orlando Studios). We will concentrate on two days each at Magic Kingdom and Disney Hollywood Studios and then two days at Universal Studios.

Day 34 (29 July). Select resorts within Walt Disney World have the opportunity to take advantage of early and late opening hours at select parks at different times throughout the week. We were able to enter Magic Kingdom at 8.00am which was an hour before the general public. There were less crowds and it was a treat to be at the front gate when Mickey and the Disney crew formally opened the gates for the day (though they repeat it gain at 9.00am for the general public). We got some quick photos before heading to Tomorrow Land and riding Space Mountain an indoor roller coaster - it was very exciting. As the other 'lands' opened up we got around to the headline rides early before the large crowds commenced lining up. We thought about the Fast Pass - where you get a ticket and come back at a later pre-determind time and go straight to the front of the line - but it wasn't worth it in the early part of the day. We rode Splash Mountain (after coaxing a very nervous Chloe into the boat - she'd had a previous bad experience on a similar ride at Movie World on the Gold Coast in Australia and was still scarred from the experience); Pirates of the Caribbean; Buzz Lightyear's Space Ranger Spin; The Haunted Mansion; and Thunder Mountain Roller Coaster. The minor attractions such as the Swiss Family Robinson Treehouse; Aladdin's Magic Carpet Ride; Carousal of Progress; Tomorrow Land Speedway; Monster's Inc Laugh Floor; and the like were all good if somewhat tamer than the headline rides. It was fairly hot and humid by lunch so we caught a ferry back to the Polynesian Resort and walked a short distance back to Shades of Green for an afternoon nap (the kids went to the pool). Andrea and I were already feeling exhausted.

After dinner we caught the ferry back to Magic Kingdom and repeated a few of the headline rides. The crowds were still large and whilst we fought through some areas and rides that were fuller than others for the most part it was easy enough to get around. The longest wait we had for a headline ride was 40 minutes. The shops were full of every imaginable product with a Disney label (and we took home some) including a Christmas store which was heaven for Andrea. We watched the evening Main Street Electrical Parade and the nightly Fireworks Show was terrific. Magic Kingdom is enormous and all your senses are constantly over-loaded. It is a visual feast to be here and it is everything that you think and more. You cannot help but get caught up in the 'magic' of Disney. It was a fantastic day and night that we thoroughly enjoyed. We went to sleep quickly and very well.

Day 35 (30 July). We woke mid-morning - thank goodness. Recharged for another sensory onslaught. This time the destination was Disney Hollywood Studios. After some morning laundry and a light lunch we caught the bus to Disney Hollywood Studios. We didn't quite know what to expect as it is smaller than Magic Kingdom, but no less impressive. It was a treat to walk down Hollywood and Sunset Boulevards as they paid tribute in art deco style buildings to the films through the ages. It was very appealing. We tackled a number of attractions (some a bit lame), but four stood out - a half hour Beauty and The Beast Musical; the Tower of Terror; Star Tours and The Great Movie Ride. The Beauty and The Beast Musical in the ampi-theatre was really entertaining (Chloe and Emily loved it). The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror could be heard through the park due to the screams of those taking the ride - a good indicator. It was sensational and Andrea, Chloe and Matthew almost needed heart starters at the end - certainly they screamed and felt sick - whilst Emily and I were okay. You sit in a maintenance elevator and travel forward up, and down inside an old hotel randomly dropping 13 stories (a number of times). It was a beauty, though Andrea and Matthew will never repeat the experience. Star Tours is based upon Star Wars and is a fabulous flight simulator like you are in the movie. It was so good we went back and did it again straight away. The Great Movie Ride traveled through classic film scenes and Hollywood moments. There were great effects and character involvement.

Tomorrow - back to Magic Kingdom (all the wiser for our earlier visit) and then the same for Hollywood Studios on Sunday. We are doing Harry Potter and Islands of Adventure on Monday (heard the wait lines for Potter are horrendous so hope a Monday will bring less crowds) followed by Orlando Studios on Tuesday. By Wednesday we should be shattered and will start our journey back to DC.

Day 32 - Tallahassee, Florida

Day 32 (27 July). We had a lovely drive from Pensacola Beach to Tallahassee, though unfortunately Andrea may have eaten a dodgy oyster last night because she had an upset tummy most of the day and slept whilst the kids and I visited the Tallahassee Automobile Museum. She is feeling better now though she is tired.

Florida's capital city has an outstanding automobile museum which is simply a must-see. I'm not a car-nut in anyway, shape or form, but I couldn't help but get excited about the journey down memory lane. Not just because of the breadth of automobiles, but also the extensive sporting memorabilia; fine pianos (five steinways, including the Alma-Tadema the world's most expensive new piano ever built); historical boats; old outboard motors; motor-cycles; guns; knives; early 1900's type-writers; the list of things goes on. It was brilliant.

They had the original Batmobile from the TV series, the Batmobiles featured in 'Batman Returns' and 'Batman Forever' and the 1948 Tucker Torpedo actually used in the movie 'Tucker'. The muscle cars were all there such as a 1963 Corvette valued over $3 million. They have some of the rarest cars in the country and the place is unbelievable. You can spend hours there. The museum really is a must see and you can view them at www.tacm.com for a list of the cars.

Next stop - Orlando, Florida. Yep, the kids are very excited. We have eight nights inside the Walt Disney World complex. We will also be visiting the new Harry Potter World at Universal Studios (which I think they are most excited about).

Day 31 - Pensacola Beach, Florida

Day 31 (26 July). The sun seemed to shine brighter when we crossed out of Louisiana and into Mississippi. There was a cracking thunderstorm with plenty of driving rain in New Orleans last night. We traveled through the hot and humid countryside and when we entered Alabama we stopped in Mobile. The state's capital is the home to the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park which is dedicated to honor all Alabama veterans who have participated in all conflicts of the US Armed Services. We were able to tour their aircraft hanger (including a flight simulator ride) and walk throughout both the Submarine USS DRUM (SS-228) and the Battleship USS ALABAMA (BB-60). Both served with distinction in WW2 and other conflicts. USS DRUM sank 15 enemy ships and USS ALABAMA shot down 22 enemy airplanes and earned 9 battle stars. We had a great few hours looking all over the vessels and in the end, the consensus was that the submarine was the best.

We then drove into Florida and headed through green fields and traveled over long bridges to Pensacola Beach. Our hotel is on the Gulf of Mexico beachfront and was our first stop. The famous white sand was gleaming, however the beach wasn't busy - the oil spill is having an effect and it's also in the water. After an awful dip in a very wispy green seaweed filled Gulf we looked at our legs and there were small oily smears on them. They might not be clumps of oil, but it is definitely there. Like good Aussie kids, they didn't care and just kept playing and digging sandcastles. After a quick beachside shower we used the hotel pool to get the rest of the crud of us. The Pensacola Beach is good and the area quite relaxing. There is nothing like a sea-breeze, but the water is average - the oil is a problem, but so is the seaweed if it stays the same level and consistency through summer. Still a nice spot to holiday.

Next stop - Tallahassee, Florida

Day 30 - New Orleans, Louisiana

Day 30 (25 July). After five pretty great days in Texas we started east and traveled through Louisiana traversing bridges that stretched for miles over the swamps. The landscape change was immediate - swamp lands - as were the noticeably worse drivers. Louisiana drivers think it's okay to travel just below the speed limit in the the over-taking lane because most of them do it. They don't move over, don't seem to care and can't read traffic flows. It made for an awful drive. This was further compounded when the Garmin GPS finally gave up.

Given we were only staying overnight we booked a hotel just inside the French Quarter of downtown New Orleans, the home of the 2010 NFL Superbowl Champions 'The Saints' whose supporter battle-cry is "Who Dat." We quickly settled in and then went for a walk around the streets. We went east along Royal Street to St Louis' Cathedral and Jackson Square before coming back along the famous Bourbon Street. None of us were impressed. You can have the place. The place genuinely smells and not just from the many desperate strugglers (drunk and/or drugged) who beg and pan-handle on the streets. We are not prudes, but the tasteless, tacky and overt sex bars - one with photographs of their full-on nude audience participation - made Las Vegas look like a seminary - and it was only late afternoon. The seedy night-crawlers seemed to be out early and the kids who are usually pretty good and confident said they felt really nervous and unsafe walking around - even Matthew said, "This place is full of freaks." We are all looking forward to getting out of New Orleans and Louisiana. This is clearly the place we have liked the least.

Next stop - Pensacola Beach, Florida

Day 28 & 29 - Houston, Texas

Day 28 (23 July). We traveled across the Piney Woods region of Texas late morning for the drive to the fourth largest city in the USA - Houston, Texas. We used state roads for a period of time before joining the interstate and having to endure lunatic car and truck drivers who seemed intent upon raising our stress levels by demonstrating their complete lack of ability to read the flow of traffic. When we were 50 miles north of this next stop it already looked like we had arrived. The urban sprawl of the Gulf Coast region of Texas where Houston is located just went on and on. We were delighted when our temperamental Garmin GPS (whose warranty expired about six months ago) determined that to reach South Houston (where we were staying and the Space Centre) we would be better served driving straight through the CBD rather than taking an outer ring road loop. Having spent the past few days driving on state highways in the Texas countryside, it was a real adjustment to suddenly be battling the onslaught of 8-10 lane major city traffic on a Friday afternoon. There wasn't too much cursing, and when it was it was directed at 'Leigh' the Australian Garmin voice - who as an inanimate object couldn't care less what we said, but it made us feel better. Then again, if there was a muck-up he had this condescending tone when he announced "Recalculating" as though it was clearly our ridiculous fault for not following his instructions. We reached the hotel late afternoon and had a nice quiet evening catching up on emails, updating the blog and getting information from the internet.

It was interesting to see Tropical Depression Bonnie currently off Florida and heading into the Gulf of Mexico featuring prominently in the news. A quick check of the weather forecast for the next 10 days where we are traveling around the Gulf and in Orlando showed thunderstorms and rain every day. It gave us something to really think about regarding our decision to stay in campgrounds in the next few days. It has been hot in Houston and we have really noticed the higher humidity. One of the last things that we need as we head toward Orlando is a wet canvas tent in the back of the car for over a week whilst we stay in the resort at Walt Disney World. Not only will the car and tent smell pretty bad, but the damage to the tent from mould would not be worth the overall effort. We have decided that while we currently have a dry tent we will cancel the wet campgrounds and stay in hotels.

Day 29 (24 July). We had a slow start to the day with Matthew and Chloe sleeping until late morning. The kids have been busy and they needed that extra rest. We went to Johnson Space Center Houston about mid-day and spent the next few hours wandering around. We have been spoilt in DC with the Air & Space Museums at both the National Mall and Dulles Airport, which are both outstanding, as well as seeing the additional space elements at the US Air Force Museum at Dayton Ohio. The Space Center Houston was just okay. If you have a few spare hours in Houston you could probably find something better (and cheaper) to do.

We had the opportunity to catch up with US friends (Bob and Brenda Swisher) and their family. Their daughter Katie prepared a delightful and tasty meal and it was great to catch up and get a local's perspective of Houston.

Next stop - overnight in New Orleans, Louisiana

Day 26 & 27 - Clifton, Texas

Day 26 (21 July) - As Lubbock disappeared in the rearview mirror we headed to the 'Norwegian Capital of Texas' and small town Texas - Clifton. Rick Richards, a now retired US Navy Captain, and I had worked together in the Middle East in 2008 and this trip provided a great opportunity to catch up with him again. We arrived at his 500 acre small cattle ranch only days before his wedding to the beautiful Connie. They both were so relaxed and happy.

The kids were delighted to have space to run, a trampoline to bounce upon, cattle to feed and an all-terrain vehicle that ran them around (thanks Russell for all the driving). We visited the beautiful and oldest Lutheran Church in the District where Rick and Connie will marry on Saturday and toured the beautiful Clifton region. We dined on the tenderest venison (deer) that Rick shot last hunting season with other traditional Texan food, including a range of very tasty homemade fruit cobbler's straight from Rick's Mum's kitchen. We chatted long into the night and felt right at home. In fact, we'd had over three weeks of camp-grounds and hotels so it was a treat to be inside a real home, and such a welcoming one at that. Before bed, Emily commented that this ranch life is awesome.

Day 27 (22 July) - As more family and friends gathered in Clifton for the pending nuptials we had the delight of meeting many more Texans. We took advantage of the hot day with a picnic lunch at a local resort pool before another Texan dinner experience at the Bunkhouse BBQ Restaurant - baked potatoes, smoked brisket, ribs, corn nuggets, etc. We returned to the ranch, the kids fed the cattle and we saw where the new house will be built upon the ridge-line with its sweeping views. It was so relaxing that time seemed to have slowed and we really felt that we had been here much longer than we actually had.

The kids made new friends with other children virtually the same age and they all couldn't get enough of riding in the all-terrain vehicle whilst the german shepherd dogs chased them. The kids had a great time (as did we) and think they are more likely to form stronger memories of the ranch than the many other world famous places they have visited. A testament to the wonderful time we've had.

At such an important and busy time for Rick, Connie and their families and friends we were overwhelmed with their generous hospitality and taking the time to look after us so well.

Next stop - Houston, Texas

Day 25 - Lubbock, Texas

Day 25 (20 July) - When we initially departed DC and headed west we were moving with the sun and gaining hours as we passed through the four different time zones on Continental USA. We departed from inside the Eastern Time Zone and we then passed through the Central Time Zone, Mountain Time Zone and finally the Pacific Time Zone. The trip has been fantastic for not actually being really aware of the day, date or time. Each day has run well into the other and because we see little television and virtually no newspapers we forget when it is (and occasionally where we are). Whilst we were obviously conscious of the time differences we became more aware as we headed back east and lost an hour (or two).

The drive through the remainder of New Mexico involved a short detour to the old Fort Sumner where the outlaw and infamous William Bonney aka 'Billy The Kid' was killed by Pat Garrett. It was an interesting diversion and the museum had some interesting artifacts and copies of letters that Bonney wrote whilst he was detained there. His letters to the Governor were quite articulate and well written. Whilst another town claims his grave, Fort Sumner was where he was actually killed and is home to his tombstone, though it had been stolen from there and only resurfaced in the 1980's. It's hard to imagine that his body would have been buried anywhere else other than the military fort where he was killed so I think Fort Sumner's claim as his authentic gravesite is probably realistic. It was a very interesting visit and now we have to rent the 'Young Guns' movie for the kids so they better understand what they saw (well, the Hollywood version).

The crossing into Texas was almost immediately obvious and a stark contrast to the barren landscapes we'd endured over the previous week. The extensive cotton farms and the rolling hills that were the sweeping ranches were green and lush. I thought this colorful change of scenery and eye-relief was initially an aberration, but no - it kept going and has not stopped.

We were amazed when we traveled through the Sweetwater area and saw wind farms littered the countryside from left to right and to the horizon miles away. Texas has embraced wind power and this area has one of the largest wind farms and it was enormous. There were hundreds of them and they were a sight to behold.

The Texas countryside is big and beautiful. We drove away from the major interstate highway and tacked south-east along state highways toward our overnight stop in Lubbock. Lubbock is quite a sizable cattle town and the home of Buddy Holly. We had hoped to visit the town's museum to him, but forgot about losing an hour when we crossed from New Mexico to Texas and only arrived in the town as it closed. However, there was plenty of time to get to the main reason for our stay in Lubbock - the Stars and Stripes Drive In Theatre. Andrea and I had been to the drive-in previously, but given the almost non-existence of the Australian drive-in theatre meant the kids had never had the opportunity nor did they know this wonderful form of entertainment even existed. We had a delightful night under a beautiful night sky sitting outside on chairs outside the car watching 'The Sorcerer's Apprentice.' It is a great show and we thoroughly enjoyed both the movie and the drive-in experience - even as the occasional freight train tooted its horn and rattled its carriages on the way past the screen.

Next stop - Clifton, Texas for a short stay at a friend's ranch.

Day 23 & 24 - Albuquerque, New Mexico

Day 23 (18 July). The drive through Arizona and New Mexico was interesting. There were short periods of hills and trees before finding ourselves back in the desert. The mesas were striking and I could imagine any number of western movies that would have been filmed through this area. The road signage was not as bad as South Dakota, but seemed to increase as we passed through Apache County and Navajo Nation. They advertised the Fort, rugs, genuine indian 'trinkets' - it all had a feel of the old TV series 'F Troop.' I hoped that the indigenous indians have really got better deals and opportunities then what was by the roadside.

The Spanish influences in Albuquerque are evident from the style of some of the housing with flat roofed earth villas through to the names of the streets and places. It was interesting to see the extent of the influence. In fact, I recall reading that Albuquerque used to have an additional letter - an 'r' as the fifth letter because it was originally named after a Spanish Duke.

We rode the Sandia Aerial Tramway which is the world's longest aerial tramway. Built between 1964-66, the 50 person capacity cable cars take 15 minutes to ascend 2.7 miles (4.46 km) to the peak of the Sandia Mountains (10,378 feet) which is a popular skiing and mountain biking area. The trip up and down was fabulous and the views were obviously quite extensive. Whilst the Tramway ran up one side of the mountain a series of chairlifts operated on the other. It would be magnificent in winter.

We are staying at the temporary lodging facilities at Kirtland Air Force Base. The rooms are very good and it is nice to be on a base with access to very good amenities. Some things between countries don't change and it was funny to see a tractor pulling a lawn cutter over a dusty field that only had a fews clumps of grass. All I could think was that they probably had a monthly contract to mow the grounds and they were mowing them - grass or not. The base has made excellent use of pebbles and crushed rocks as landscaping and it is quite attractive and economical given the environmental conditions.

There was a large thunder and lightning storm that skirted around the base. There was little rain, but plenty of noise and light.

Day 24 (19 July) We thought a morning swim in the base pool would be a great start to the day, but it is closed on Mondays. This area is renowned for hot-air ballooning so we thought a visit to the Hot Air Balloon Museum would be interesting. A quick google showed it was closed on Mondays. Albuquerque has a series of biological parks (zoo, aquarium, park, trail) so we thought a combination pass would be good, but they don't sell them on Mondays because some train in the park gets maintenance. If you can avoid Albuquerque on a Monday you will see more.

We did go to the Rio Grande Zoo - which was really very good. We were pleasantly surprised to see that they had an extensive Australian themed exhibit and animals - koalas, kangaroos, emus, crocodiles, a kookaburra and even different reptiles. They had a corrugated iron roofed shack that was kitted out with some Australiana, including an old tin of Milo and an old tin of Rosella Tomato Soup on display. They also has a wide range of other animals such as a polar bear, wolves, seals etc. It was much better than we thought and it is definitely worth a visit - it's open on a Monday.

We are back tracking along the old Route 66 and Albuquerque has been no different to any other that has this association.

Next stop is Lubbock Texas for one night before spending the next couple of days at a friend's ranch at Clifton which is just north-west of Waco Texas. The change in locations also means a change in altitude as we start to leave the mountains and by the time we reach Clifton it will only be 650 feet above sea level. All the past week has been very dry heat with each day above 100 degrees F and we have had to really pace ourselves. The coming weeks will be hot, however there will now be increasing humidity to deal with as we near the Gulf of Mexico.

Day 20-22 - Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Day 20 (15 July) - After the obligatory stop at its famous sign we departed Las Vegas mid-morning for the Grand Canyon. The weather had not changed and it remained very hot.

We were soon at the Hoover Dam which is regarded as one of the engineering wonders of the world. The children were also particularly interested in some statues at the wall because they were mentioned in the Percy Jackson and The Olympians series of books. The security to drive over the wall was the most we have encountered on the trip. The traffic slowed to a crawl to pass through a security check-point and just when we thought we'd passed through we were pulled over so they could check the storage pack that we have on the back of the car - and then inside just for good measure. I wasn't too sure whether the Dam was named after the Hoover vacuum company because it sure started to suck hard to get the dollars out of your wallet. There was the $7 for public car-parking, the $8 per person (or $40 for our family) just to enter the Visitor Centre (I cannot recall ever having to pay to enter a Visitor's Centre) through to the $2 for cold water in the smallest possible bottle. The Dam is an impressive feat of engineering, though it was not as large as I thought it would be. We left Hoover Dam a tad disappointed and were soon stationary amongst roadworks marveling at lunatics working in 120 degree heat.

We arrived in the Grand Canyon National Park late afternoon and set up camp. The physical aspects of the campsite were the best that we have experienced yet. We visited the General Store for some provisions, including the firewood that appeases Matthew who just loves campfires. We spent the evening around the embers and at different times asked each of the kids to talk us through where we had been (in order), what we had done and their favorite part. It was a great time of reflection and really interesting to get the kids perspectives. We are really proud of not only how well they are handling the trip but how they are growing up and developing.

Day 21 (16 July). It was a late start after a late evening and bacon and eggs were very welcome. It was quite warm already so I put the tarp up for the first time this trip. We muddled around for a short time and then headed to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The Grand in Grand Canyon is such an under-statement. At 227 miles long, 10 miles wide and one mile deep - it is amazing and hard to describe. The views are breath-taking and it is really impressive. We wandered for a bit and returned to camp just as an isolated thunderstorm came through the area - thank goodness for the tarp. It really cooled the temperature and made it more comfortable. All the camping kit is standing up the extremes of weather very well.

Day 22 (17 July) Hump Day - now over half-way through this epic journey. After completing the the first half of the trip we have now crossed the hump and we are now officially in the second half. It's been a long three weeks, but a great three weeks. We have seen and done so much already that it is still daunting to think that we still have three weeks to go. The kids are delighted because there is still 8 nights at Walt Disney World and the new Harry Potter World at Universal Studios in Orlando to be enjoyed. I think it will be a while before the kids could get excited about another National Park - and how do you top the world-famous ones they have just seen.

It was a hot day so pulled back from a hike. We stayed in the National Park, visited the South Rim again before deciding late afternoon that we would break camp early and get a few hours ahead of the drive to Albuquerque. We couldn't get excited about waking early on a Sunday morning and then driving for one-third of the day to get there - so thought taking off early and getting a start on the drive would be the best thing. We were on the road by 5.00pm and enjoying some real changes of scenery as we headed east on Interstate 40 before stopping early evening for the night at Holbrook which is under four hours west of Albuquerque. When we have decided to check into a hotel we have now settled on a Holiday Inn Express - you know what you are going to get (wi-fi, complimentary continental breakfast, pool, clean room) and they have been quite reasonably priced. We had no sooner dropped the bags in the room then we went down to the pool for the kids to cool off - their best part of a drive.

Next stop - Albuquerque, New Mexico for two nights.

Day 18 & 19 - Las Vegas, Nevada

Day 18 (13 July) - It was a lazy start to the day and we enjoyed the air-conditioned comfort of the villa. It really is strange to arrive in a city that is literally in the middle of the desert. Each time we step outside we feel the dry heat sucking the moisture out of our bodies and I'm convinced that without regular drinks of water we will resemble strips of beef jerky by the time we leave.

To get the complimentary tickets to the show we mentioned previously we had to sit through a time-share presentation on the resort. I was expecting to endure a high pressure and hard-sell couple of hours, but actually it was pretty tame. I got in early that we really weren't interested. The fellow, who I almost felt sorry for, quickly appreciated our interest level and simply went through the motions. We couldn't even be bothered to nod in the right places - and he understood it. Therefore no hard sell, no strong pitches and we were soon out of there with those show tickets in hand.

The afternoon was spent walking up and down the Vegas Strip and looking at a number of the more well known casinos and the free shows. The hot weather and wind cancelled the Treasure Island show (we waited in the heat for 45 mins so were a bit disappointed), but amongst others we did see the indoor Rainstorm in the Miracle Mile of Stores at Planet Hollywood, the fountains and botanical gardens at the Bellagio, walked through Caesar's Palace, watched the gondola's and the singers in The Venetian. We also saw quite a number of people drinking in the streets, smoking in the gaming rooms (which you can walk through with children), a few pan-handlers and other strugglers handing out cards with phone numbers that could get you a girl in 20 minutes. It was a bit strange, though not unexpected, to see the wide range of excess and desperation so readily on display. I'm sure it would be a worse sight in the early hours of the morning compared to our late afternoon and early evening trek. The kids were particularly astounded when we were well inside the splendor of the Venetian and one fellow, who could at best be described as a 'bum', simply stepped over a railing and started walking through a large fountain, picking up and pocketing coins. When I told Chloe that Las Vegas was known as Sin City she astutely replied that it wouldn't have had to work hard for that title.

It was a big day walking around in the heat and we finished with dinner at the Cafe Bellagio. We were pretty tired when we finally got back.

Day 19 (14 July) - Today started in the pool and like every other time the kids were like limpet mines and couldn't leave me be. It is fun, though we soon had to head into the City for a very special event - a live taping of 'Wheel of Fortune.' This long running US (and global) game show is normally filmed in Los Angeles, but just happened to be in Las Vegas to tape its Palazzo/Vegas series. Yesterday we had picked up some standby tickets and were hopeful that we might get a seat. After a bit of waiting we eventually found ourselves in the fourth row on the left hand side of the audience watching the live taping of Show Number 5271 which will air in the US on September 20, 2010. Look out for us! It was a real treat and very exciting, though our hands have never been so sore from all the clapping.

Just as enough feeling had returned to our hands so we could eat our early dinner, we were soon off to see 'V The Ultimate Variety Show.' It was fantastic and we all had a great time. The host was an amazing juggler and comedian who was perfect. He had appeared on a number of the popular late night shows and was very fast and very funny. There were unbelievable Russian strongmen who were acrobats, another comedian whose audience participation was clever, some high-wire flyers, a drummer high up against the theatre wall and two Argentinian twirlers and comics. It was a fabulous night and we were all in stitches and amazement.

It's the final night in Las Vegas and that's enough for us. The majority of tourists, and I suspect many locals, have taken on the persona of Sin City and it just does not seem a welcoming place - unless you are handing over your cash. It was good place to see, but we like the lights in Times Square better and actually feel safer in New York.

Tomorrow we head to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona for three nights camping. The weather forecast looks good and it's time to hit the hiking trails and descend (not too far) into the Canyon. We are back to a higher altitude so it should be about 20 degrees cooler during the day and much more at night. Like Yellowstone, we don't expect wi-fi so you shouldn't expect to hear from us for a few days.

Day 17 - Las Vegas, Nevada

Day 17 (12 July) - We left Salt Lake City and the greater area seemed to keep going until we finally reached the desert. The long drive south went quicker when we reached the fastest state speed limit to date - 80 mph. We had a short cut through Arizona and it almost immediately looked and felt like we were on the moon. We passed through enormous barren mountains and canyons and we were amazed at how imposing they were. Before long we were out of the mountains and into the deserts of Nevada and well on our way to Las Vegas.

The heat haze seemed to color the horizon with a purplish tinge and when we saw that the car consistently registered the outside temperature in the low 110's degrees F we understood why. I swear that I saw a lizard holding an umbrella in one hand, sipping a cold drink in the other whilst standing next to a sign that said 'Welcome to Hell,' but then maybe it was the heat. The only things that I could think of as we drove along was hoping that we did not break down in an area without cell coverage and water and that I might make my fortune if I come back as an air-conditioner repairman. Again, we imagined ourselves in the 1800's in a wagon-train and all I could think was "those lucky so and so's in Montana and Wyoming" - it might have been tough there, but it was brutal with a hint of cruelty and suffering here.

It was a 113 degrees F (45 degrees C) and a very dry heat when we entered Las Vegas and we certainly felt that our decision to cancel the KOA camp ground booking and rent a two bedroom villa at the last minute was completely justified. In Salt Lake City we had checked the weather forecast for the three days we are in Las Vegas and the average was 107 degrees F. Today was supposed to be 106 degrees F, but the mercury was definitely higher. I could not imagine struggling through our time here in the canvas tent.

When we finally reached the Desert Paradise Resort and checked into the villa we were delighted. The staff were great and the comfort level is high - exactly what we need to enjoy this Bright Light City. We had an offer to listen to a time-share presentation and then get complimentary tickets to a show. We're happy to give up a couple of hours whilst the kids swim in the pool for $300 worth of tickets to 'The Ultimate Variety Show" at Planet Hollywood Casino tomorrow night. Then we will hit the Strip and see the sights and there are plenty of them.

One thing I didn't realize, that the concierge told us, was that parking in town is free. Regardless of whether you are staying at the best casino/hotel or not, you can drive up to the valet parking and they will park your car for free. You just have to make sure that you tip them appropriately - will let you know how much that is.

The villa has a kitchen so it was a treat to visit a decent supermarket (Whole Foods) and Andrea whipped up a storm in the kitchen - it was fantastic to have vegetables. We are really looking forward to the next couple of days.

Day 15 & 16 - Salt Lake City, Utah

Day 15 (10 July) - We departed Yellowstone through the south entrance and went straight into Grand Teton National Park. The drive through the park was spectacular, particularly the views over Jackson Lake to the mountains. We then continued south through Wyoming before cutting across the south-east corner of Idaho for a short-time and then into Utah. The changing scenery from the heights of the mountains to the valley and range floors as we criss-crossed through mountain ranges was wonderful. There were great rises where the old Dodge Caravan was like the little red train that could, and so were we - that is saying "I think we can, I think we can." We passed a number of beautiful lakes, though as we got further into Utah the mountains remained and the trees thinned out.

The massive Great Salt Lake upon which the town was built came into view. As we planned to leave Salt Lake City on Monday morning we thought it best to stay on the south-side of the city so that when we drove away it was against morning peak-hour traffic for that first day of the working week. We eventually found ourselves settled at the Holiday Inn Express. The distances have been long and tiring and sharing the driving has made it so much easier. We knew that Salt Lake City was a strong mormon centre and been told by locals that many things were not open on a Sunday due to the religion. They also said that it's pretty hard to get any alcoholic drink above about 3% strength due to the religious influence, but we didn't test that out. Maybe we were a bit tired and hot due to the change in altitude and temperature but we didn't quite take to Salt Lake City as we drove through so decided that a simple day on that Sunday would best.

Day 16 (11 July) A very slow day that involved short local drives, watching the FIFA World Cup soccer final and dinner out. The most interesting thing of the day was when the kids wanted to have a swim in the hotel pool. We went around mid-afternoon and peered around the corner of the building because there was a lot of party music, adults and no other kids. The kids baulked and thought they would feel more comfortable returning later. Late afternoon we returned to a much quieter pool where a party was being cleaned up. I noticed it straight away and bought to Andrea's attention that there were no females present and a bunch of fellows who would fit right in at the Blue Oyster Bar (remember the gay bar in the original Police Academy movie). I recall reading the hotel propaganda that it was 'gay-friendly' but I didn't think its policy was so supportive - and as Seinfeld would say, "not that there's anything wrong with that." Andrea took much delight in continually letting me know that I was getting checked out.

Day 11-14 - Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Day 11-14 (6-9 July) - We made it through the cold nights and beautiful days of the world's first national park, Yellowstone, in very good order. A trip to the local Cabela's store (all things hunting, fishing and camping) and we had an excellent Base Camp Heater (runs for about 6-7 hours on a one pound propane bottle) to keep the chills in the tent away - problem solved.

We decided to take the highest elevation highway in the Northern Rockies, the Beartooth All-American Pass (10,974 ft), to access Yellowstone through the north-eastern entrance. It is rated one of the 10 most scenic drives in the Northern Rockies and we missed it. As we approached its start, near the town of Red Lodge, lights flashed advising that the route was closed. The nearby park rangers said they had had snow on the snow that was already there and it was considered too dangerous with roadworks. A tad disappointed we detoured via Cody and gained access through the east entrance - still a lovely drive, but somewhat tamer than we had hoped with Beartooth.

Last year an article in Woodall's Camping Life magazine titled "An Insider's Guide to Yellowstone" gave some planning tips and they were right on the mark. We camped at the central Bridge Bay Campground and had plenty of time to drive most of this large and spectacular park and see plenty of bison, elks and even a bear. Deer strolled through the camp site and we enjoyed the hot springs and Tower Falls that fell into Yellowstone River. We particularly loved the areas around Lake Yellowstone (the world's largest mountain lake), hiked the Pelican Valley Trail and saw the Old Faithful geyser erupt, albeit 15 minutes later than the predicted time. Yellowstone really is a magnificent park.

Whilst the scenes and the wildlife are captivating, some of the human visitors take it too far. Time after time drivers would just stop on the road, get out and take photos seemingly oblivious to the increasing line of waiting cars behind them. It was a frustrating aspect of driving around the expansive park.

The only real hiccup was a flat battery. Due to the bear threat, campers need to keep all food, water containers, toiletries etc locked away in your car (not tent) unless they were in immediate use. That meant continually going in and out of the car and along the way a light must have stayed on. We got a jump-start from our neighbors and whilst Andrea and the girls did the laundry and had showers (closest facilities were about 4 miles away) Matthew and I had the battery tested and ultimately replaced.

We had originally planned for five nights, however had seen most everything within four nights so decided to cut Yellowstone short by one day and add another day to Las Vegas.

Yellowstone was great! Highly recommended.

Day 10 - Billings, Montana

Day 10 (5 July) - We left South Dakota heading west through the Black Hills National Forest and into Wyoming before finishing in Montana. The drive was terrific. Wyoming and Montana are truly the wild west. A few times we thought that Wyoming (certainly the north-east part of the state) was also a synonym for Nullabor (which I understand is indigenous aboriginal Australian for treeless plain). We imagined ourselves in the 1800's in a wagon train heading west looking to settle and how imposing the countryside must have been. It is a tough environment, but with its own beauty.

As we headed north into Montana the Bighorn National Forest was on our left and we saw snow on the peaks! In text speak - OMG. We had recently looked at the weather forecasts and to our surprise the nights in Yellowstone were low-mid 30 degrees F (or just 1-2 degrees C). Not quite what we expected when we planned the trip and let's just say that our summer traveling wardrobe for this trip does not accommodate that low evening temperature range. Yesterday we had stopped at the Base Exchange at Ellsworth Air Force Base in South Dakota and bought some cheap track-suits, but it seems with snow on the peaks that probably won't be enough. With five nights planned in Yellowstone it would be nice to actually get some sleep rather than shiver/freeze and be miserable all night and then have to deal with the effects the next day. Andrea is already concerned about bears and wild animals so compounding that with sleep deprivation would bring out the PET for all of us. So it's shopping tomorrow for sleeping bag liners and some extra kit to ensure we are warm enough.

This afternoon we stopped at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. It was really informative and interesting. Whilst many focus on Custer and the defeat, the brief by the Park Ranger described the campaign and its background. His passionate description was enlightening and walking the battlefield and seeing the memorial markers where the officers, soldiers and some indians actually fell was sobering. It is an excellent monument to both the US soldiers and the indians.

We were due to stop at another camp ground this evening, but much to the kids delight (and ours) we decided we had time to push past that evening's pre-planned small-town stop and book into a hotel in the larger city of Billings before the weather turned awful - it's rainy and cool. It's shopping in Billings before driving up to about 10,000 ft to get into Yellowstone and then dropping down to about 8,500 ft where we are staying at the Bay Bridge Camp Ground on Lake Yellowstone. We hope it warms up at night.

We are not expecting a great deal of wi-fi access whilst in Yellowstone so we may not update the blog for a number of days.

Day 9 - Keystone, South Dakota

Day 9 (4 July) - Independence Day. It's been intermittent rain through the day and we are glad that we saw the major sights yesterday. The tent has held up well. We went shopping and just generally enjoyed a slow day with rest. The kids are really enjoying the trip and we are spending time talking about what we have seen and what their favorite parts of the trip have been. They enjoy any opportunity to get into a pool and mix it up with other kids.

Tomorrow we head to Hardin in Montana for one night to look at the nearby site of the Battle of Little Big Horn (Custer's last stand) before we head to Yellowstone National Park for five nights.

Day 7 & 8 - Keystone, South Dakota

Day 7 (2 July) - After a good rest yesterday we rose at 5.30am for the big drive from Omaha Nebraska to Mount Rushmore near Keystone South Dakota. We crossed back into Iowa and enjoyed a strong tail wind as we headed north toward South Dakota. As we crossed the state line and pulled into a gas station for fuel we were surprised to find that most gas stations come with their own casinos. There were already some folk relentlessly punching nickels (5c) and quarters (25c) into the slot machines at 9.00am. I toughed it through what was easily the worst cup of coffee I have had in long time as we continued north to Sioux Falls before turning west toward Rapid City. That tail wind was now coming in from the side and trying to push the car off the road for the next few hundred miles.

Local radio again provided some light entertainment and something of a reflection of the local communities. I was amazed at Kaboom Fireworks who proudly advertised, "every artillery shell you can imagine." To me, it sounded like a way to enter the next Darwin Awards. One place also listed the "broad jump" as an activity at its Independence Day Festival. I understand that the broad jump was a competitive event in the Ancient Olympics, but in a rural South Dakota Festival. What else do they do for fun? Andrea was delighted when we drove past the Home of Laura Ingliss Wilder. You might remember that name (less the Wilder) as the character of a young girl on the hit 70's or 80's show 'The Little House on The Prairie.' We could see the inspiration for that book and show. The GPS showed that we did not have to make a turn for 336 miles as we drove across South Dakota and there really isn't much more than farms, grasslands and the odd farm. What was surprising was the number of billboards on the side of the road. They were relentless in advertising any association with something odd or famous to draw you in and get your coin. There was the world's largest sculptured bull head, the world's largest corn palace, the Town of 1880 focussed on western movies and any place associated with the filming of 'Dances with Wolves' - one sign proudly tried to draw you into see a horse that was in the movie. There were way too many signs for Wall Drug (a drug store in a town called Wall, which we drove past and is quite over-rated). Though strangely, I confess to enjoying those billboards as they bought both comic relief and relief to the drive.

Two of the best parts of the drive were crossing the Missouri River and the 62 mile scenic loop through the Badlands National Park. They were both very impressive. The Badlands National Park was a welcome respite from hundreds of miles of the continual rolling hills and those billboards and should be a must see if you are out this way. In 100 degree heat we took a walk through its eerie moonscape which has been shaped by erosion over many thousands of years. You would not want to get disorientated or lost in the deep gorges.

We are staying in Keystone near the major sites and it just lives off those sites. I was staggered to find that there was not even a supermarket (of any real size and description), but plenty of restaurants and memento shops. So it was 20 miles back down the hill to Rapid City to stock up on some staples. Keystone is over 4,000 ft above sea level so the hills give the old Dodge Grand Caravan a decent work-out (can't wait for Yellowstone which is apparently above 8,000 ft). We are in the slow lanes competing with the large RV's for slowest climb.

Day 8 (3 July). We rose late, certainly as Andrea and I had enjoyed some red wine the night before and played some board games with the children. Mid-morning we took on the Black Hills and went for a drive arriving at the Crazy Horse Memorial. It is the world's largest sculptured mountain and a mammoth undertaking. It started in 1948 (seven years after Mount Rushmore was completed) is understandably taking decades to complete. They have moved millions of tons of rock to carve Crazy Horse riding a horse and it looks like it is coming out of the mountain. When researching a visit I had some apprehension, but they were quickly dismissed after seeing the scale of the endeavor and hearing the background. The sculptor was invited by the local indian elders who wanted a visible display of their own heroes - rightly so. To date, they have only carved Crazy Horse's face and there is a long way to go. I doubt they will be finished in my life-time, certainly given they rely on private donations and continue to refuse state and federal funding. It will be a beauty when it is finished.

We then made our way to Mount Rushmore, which celebrates Independence Day on 3rd July so not to take the tourists away from the local communities on the 4th. It was a really good visit and is quite impressive. We took the compulsory photos in front of the faces, including one of Matthew juggling his soccer ball for his coaches, and then we walked the half-mile Presidential Trail that takes you close to the faces. It was very interesting to get perspectives from the different angles where you could view the rock face. A brief by the Park Ranger at the Sculptor's Studio included a cameo by Emily who was used as a model to help demonstrate how they measured the faces for carving. As the Ranger spoke dark clouds passed overhead and soon lightning and rain fell heavily, albeit for a short time. All Andrea and I could think about was how we left the tent windows open - and yep, it was wet when we got back (though not too bad). There were no fireworks this year at Mount Rushmore and people were saying its because of fire danger, logistics and/or the sonic sounds of the exploding fireworks stressing and damaging the rock face. I like to think its the latter, because a local (through ever reliable second hand information) said they expect the rock face to fall off in the next few decades.

The kids have been absolutely fantastic on the trip and have really pitched in. No-one has used PET yet. We have been really enjoying ourselves. This is gold!

Day 5 & 6 - Omaha Nebraska

Day 5 (30 Jun) - Another beautiful day as we travelled through the rest of Illinois, across Missouri, a the south-west corner of Iowa and finished just inside Nebraska. A real treat was driving over the great Mississippi River into Hannibal Missouri which was the boyhood home of Mark Twain. You could really feel his inspiration for Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer. It must have been something growing up around there as a young man. The only odd thing about the drive was trying to figure out the Missouri State Motto The "Show Me" State. Show me what?

We have now driven over 1,000 miles and while the license plate game is getting competitive (trying to spot all the different US state car license plates as possible) and the kids are being kept entertained with the occasional movie in the car and their Nintendo DS, we are getting a bit tired. We have decided that tomorrow in Omaha will be a day of rest to get ready for the bigger drive (about 10 hours driving) to Keystone South Dakota - home to Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial etc. We will be staying there three nights over the July 4th Independence Day weekend.

For those that don't know, other places will be visiting on this epic voyage include: Yellowstone National Park, Las Vegas, Grand Canyon, Houston, New Orleans and both Walt Disney World and the new Harry Potter World in Orlando Florida.

Day 6 (1 July) - We were really impressed with Omaha as a city - much larger and nicer than we thought it might be, though we're not quite sure what we expected. A rest day and we all went to the movies on the opening day of 'The Last Airbender.' It was great. A nice Nana nap in the afternoon whilst the kids bounced on the large camp ground pillow, played mini-golf and swam in the pool. A welcome and timely break.