Day 7 & 8 - Keystone, South Dakota

Day 7 (2 July) - After a good rest yesterday we rose at 5.30am for the big drive from Omaha Nebraska to Mount Rushmore near Keystone South Dakota. We crossed back into Iowa and enjoyed a strong tail wind as we headed north toward South Dakota. As we crossed the state line and pulled into a gas station for fuel we were surprised to find that most gas stations come with their own casinos. There were already some folk relentlessly punching nickels (5c) and quarters (25c) into the slot machines at 9.00am. I toughed it through what was easily the worst cup of coffee I have had in long time as we continued north to Sioux Falls before turning west toward Rapid City. That tail wind was now coming in from the side and trying to push the car off the road for the next few hundred miles.

Local radio again provided some light entertainment and something of a reflection of the local communities. I was amazed at Kaboom Fireworks who proudly advertised, "every artillery shell you can imagine." To me, it sounded like a way to enter the next Darwin Awards. One place also listed the "broad jump" as an activity at its Independence Day Festival. I understand that the broad jump was a competitive event in the Ancient Olympics, but in a rural South Dakota Festival. What else do they do for fun? Andrea was delighted when we drove past the Home of Laura Ingliss Wilder. You might remember that name (less the Wilder) as the character of a young girl on the hit 70's or 80's show 'The Little House on The Prairie.' We could see the inspiration for that book and show. The GPS showed that we did not have to make a turn for 336 miles as we drove across South Dakota and there really isn't much more than farms, grasslands and the odd farm. What was surprising was the number of billboards on the side of the road. They were relentless in advertising any association with something odd or famous to draw you in and get your coin. There was the world's largest sculptured bull head, the world's largest corn palace, the Town of 1880 focussed on western movies and any place associated with the filming of 'Dances with Wolves' - one sign proudly tried to draw you into see a horse that was in the movie. There were way too many signs for Wall Drug (a drug store in a town called Wall, which we drove past and is quite over-rated). Though strangely, I confess to enjoying those billboards as they bought both comic relief and relief to the drive.

Two of the best parts of the drive were crossing the Missouri River and the 62 mile scenic loop through the Badlands National Park. They were both very impressive. The Badlands National Park was a welcome respite from hundreds of miles of the continual rolling hills and those billboards and should be a must see if you are out this way. In 100 degree heat we took a walk through its eerie moonscape which has been shaped by erosion over many thousands of years. You would not want to get disorientated or lost in the deep gorges.

We are staying in Keystone near the major sites and it just lives off those sites. I was staggered to find that there was not even a supermarket (of any real size and description), but plenty of restaurants and memento shops. So it was 20 miles back down the hill to Rapid City to stock up on some staples. Keystone is over 4,000 ft above sea level so the hills give the old Dodge Grand Caravan a decent work-out (can't wait for Yellowstone which is apparently above 8,000 ft). We are in the slow lanes competing with the large RV's for slowest climb.

Day 8 (3 July). We rose late, certainly as Andrea and I had enjoyed some red wine the night before and played some board games with the children. Mid-morning we took on the Black Hills and went for a drive arriving at the Crazy Horse Memorial. It is the world's largest sculptured mountain and a mammoth undertaking. It started in 1948 (seven years after Mount Rushmore was completed) is understandably taking decades to complete. They have moved millions of tons of rock to carve Crazy Horse riding a horse and it looks like it is coming out of the mountain. When researching a visit I had some apprehension, but they were quickly dismissed after seeing the scale of the endeavor and hearing the background. The sculptor was invited by the local indian elders who wanted a visible display of their own heroes - rightly so. To date, they have only carved Crazy Horse's face and there is a long way to go. I doubt they will be finished in my life-time, certainly given they rely on private donations and continue to refuse state and federal funding. It will be a beauty when it is finished.

We then made our way to Mount Rushmore, which celebrates Independence Day on 3rd July so not to take the tourists away from the local communities on the 4th. It was a really good visit and is quite impressive. We took the compulsory photos in front of the faces, including one of Matthew juggling his soccer ball for his coaches, and then we walked the half-mile Presidential Trail that takes you close to the faces. It was very interesting to get perspectives from the different angles where you could view the rock face. A brief by the Park Ranger at the Sculptor's Studio included a cameo by Emily who was used as a model to help demonstrate how they measured the faces for carving. As the Ranger spoke dark clouds passed overhead and soon lightning and rain fell heavily, albeit for a short time. All Andrea and I could think about was how we left the tent windows open - and yep, it was wet when we got back (though not too bad). There were no fireworks this year at Mount Rushmore and people were saying its because of fire danger, logistics and/or the sonic sounds of the exploding fireworks stressing and damaging the rock face. I like to think its the latter, because a local (through ever reliable second hand information) said they expect the rock face to fall off in the next few decades.

The kids have been absolutely fantastic on the trip and have really pitched in. No-one has used PET yet. We have been really enjoying ourselves. This is gold!